Franciacorta winery Ca' del Bosco presented a Special Reserve of its iconic Franciacorta Annamaria Clementi: vintage 1980, among the greatest tastings ever.
In 1980, more than 80 liters of wine per capita was drunk in Italy, roughly twice as much as today, promiscuous vineyards came close to 50 percent of the total, and bulk wine was the norm. Many companies that are very famous today either did not exist or were very different from what they are today; there were about ten Supertuscans, wines like Masseto or Gaia e Rey had not yet been produced, and the only “barricaded” white was Frescobaldi’s Benefizio. Docg wines made their debut, the first being, in order of market release, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, Barbaresco, Barolo and Brunello di Montalcino.
The vintage was not memorable for many important reds, if I remember correctly there were fairly widespread rains and it was quite cool at harvest time. Therefore, many wines of that vintage did not end up in the aging cellars of wine shops, restaurants or enthusiasts, they were drunk first, perhaps with pleasure given the agile and elegant character they presented. Wine guides did not exist; there was only Veronelli’s Catalogo Bolaffi dei Vini d’Italia, which was shortly thereafter published by Giorgio Mondadori. The magazines that were popular were Vini&liquors, Il Vino and Civiltà del Bere, which still exists.
Why am I telling you all this? Because some time ago I happened to taste in the cellars of Ca’ del Bosco in Erbusco, a Franciacorta RS (Riserva Speciale) Annamaria Clementi just from 1980. But not produced and released in those years, but kept on the lees for 516 months and which will be offered to the public only now. I don’t think such a thing has ever happened in Italy, and as far as Champagnes are concerned, only Krug and very few others can boast sur point bottles that old.
What is really amazing, bordering on unbelievable, is that that Franciacorta is inexceptionally intact condition. It may have been the cool vintage, it may have been the perfect storage at a constant temperature, it may have been the closure with particularly happy corks, it may have been the skill of Maurizio Zanella‘s team, it may have been whatever you want, in short. The fact remains that it was really hard to foresee tasting such a wine that in its genre is, in my opinion, the best ever in our country.
Of course it will cost a lot, I think on the wine shop shelf it could easily reach 700 euros, and there will be 6,000 bottles in all. The blend included 40% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir and 20% Pinot Blanc. Now it is a true time capsule that magically takes us back to forty-three years ago, when Maurizio Zanella was a 24-year-old boy and had a few mentors guiding him on his path in the world of wine. Luigi Veronelli, Giacomo Bologna, Giorgio Grai, Mario Schiopetto, Giannola Nonino and also Angelo Gaja. I met him myself just in 1980. I was and am two years older than him, and I was like him just starting out. So the emotion and memories for me were even deeper.
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