Brolo dei Giusti, the high-end of Cantine di Verona

Cantine di Verona is increasingly focused on projects dedicated to catering. Having consolidated the foundations, the union and coherence between different territories united under the name of Cantine Verona, today this cooperative winery is ready to devote itself more and more to the flagship line that bears the name of Brolo dei Giusti. The homecoming starts with chef Giancarlo Perbellini, 12 Apostoli Casa Perbellini in Verona.

Brolo dei Giusti, the story

The history of Brolo dei Giusti refers to the history of the Valpantena, that area of Valpolicella circumscribed north of the city of Verona, on the slopes of the Lessini Mountains. It was the countryside of the Veronese, rich in villas, which still take one’s breath away simply by looking at them from the outside. Attached to each villa was the brolo, the garden where fruits, vegetables, olives and vines were grown. Surrounded by walls, the livelihood for the family itself was derived from there. Professor Avesani tells us about this in his book that traces the history of the Valpantena as a territory, of Cantina Valpantena (one of the realities of Cantine di Verona) and the central role of broli in a not-so-distant peasant past.

Brolo dei Giusti as a wine line was bornin 2013 with the first label. A Valpolicella Superiore that officially decrees the intentions of this new project: to rediscover the talents of each territory. Thus, Valpolicella Superiore is followed by an Amarone della Valpolicella, then a Ripasso and finally a Custoza Superiore and a Garda passito. All identity wines but above all the result of research in terms of agronomy, production excellence and winemaking technique with the aim of enhancing the identity of the product itself and at the same time encouraging integrity and longevity of the wine.

Durability over time

Essential element the latter, not only if we are talking about Amarone, where durability is the prerogative of the product itself. We realize this especially by going back to the tastings of Valpolicella Superiore appreciating certainly its tightness over the years, but especially highlighting how the style of the product has changed in the direction of a cooler wine. Several times during the tasting held at the 12 Apostoli Casa Perbellini Verona restaurant, it was pointed out that Valpolicella Superiore is the wine on which the most search to establish its style, the same path that the territory and the denomination as a whole are taking.

The evolution of the Superior

From a wine made from partially dried grapes today we are talking about a wine made from 100% fresh grapes where the use of a portion of stems in winemaking is making a difference. Along the same lines also travels the Custoza Superior, now in the 2020 vintage, that from a fresh, fruity and savory white wine becomes a complex, soft, persistent and deep product thanks to the skillful and measured use of wood. True to itself, and to the expectation of the public, is theAmarone della Valpolicella, where power, concentration and enveloping notes of appassimento dominate.

Brolo of the Righteous at the table

Okay, so maybe the table at 12 Apostoli and Giancarlo Perbellini’s star-studded cuisine are just not for everyone. But perhaps this is precisely what Cantine di Verona wants to tell us relative to the importance and style of these products. Surprising in the pairings was the Custoza Superiore 2020 at the table, which gave a nice twist both with dishes that we would have expected and dishes where some would have bet a red could take center stage.

Small digression on the cuisine–the
Wafer with sea bass tartare, goat cheese, sesame seeds and licorice
by Giancarlo Perbellini is still among the tastiest things I’ve ever eaten. Iconic, delicious, addictive and never gets sick of it! With Custoza Brolo dei Giusti has its why. But the real surprise was with a dish that alas is not always on the menu. A Ravioli stuffed with risotto mantecato with cheese and fondant onion, to conclude the black truffle. An up&down of textures, sweetness and savoriness, for a remarkable and balanced persistence. Custoza Superiore Barolo dei Giusti also had its say with this dish, which still managed to wink at Valpolicella Superiore as well.

Speaking of Valpolicella, to conclude, the 2015 vintage is in excellent shape. In the glass it is full, enveloping, concentrated. But wait until the 2017 vintage enters the bottle. Tasted as a barrel sample it certainly suffers from lack of bottle, but it promises floral, fresh and sweetly perfumed sensations, hints of black cherry, which taste of Valpolicella, and some smoky touches that speak of a rest in wood that is not too intrusive but useful and essential to complete the picture of complexity.

TO READ THE WINE DESCRIPTIONS, WITH SCORE AND AVERAGE SHELF PRICE, CLICK ON THE TABS BELOW.