Despite the path mapped out decades ago for a precise and unique territorial identity, thanks to Syrah, the territory fails to take off. Riccardo Viscardi ‘s opinion is that it lacks dynamism and, perhaps, conviction.
For the past few years, we have been participating in the Chianina & Syrah. A beautiful kermesse with clear starring the well-known Tuscan meat. The winemakers of Cortona are damning their souls at this event, stepping in en masse, organizing both the preview of the Syrahs by them, than very interesting comparative tastings with other Syrahs from Italy and the world. Excellent service, room a bit dark and slightly boisé but wonderful inside the Maec museum. Among the various initiatives dedicated to “outside the area,” by way of example, I would like to point out the excellent vertical of Scrio delle Macchiole (Bolgheri).
All beautiful and great efforts for the small and young Cortona doc consortium, but there are some reflections to be made: it is sad to note the latitance of the municipality which provides facilities but charges for them through a subsidiary, almost as if to detach itself from that oenological and social fabric represented by the producers, not understanding their the territorial importance. They probably have too many tourists already; so better the cackling torpedo, easily of kids, than a qualitative tourism, perhaps high-spending who experience the area, frequent restaurants, museums and producers, and stay in the area longer, generating wealth even in the less favorable seasons.
We come to the wine
The second consideration is only enological: 40 years have passed since the D’Alessandro brothers blazed the trail for Syrah in Cortona. Breaking away from the overused Sangiovese. Is it possible that even today the Cortona vineyard of Syrah is only 70 percent (as if Montalcino had 30 percent of other grape varieties besides Sangiovese)? Is it possible that the hills have not been explored with this grape variety? Is it possible that the better companies are always and only the same ones?
In short, the territory lacks dynamism, the innovative spirit of years past seems extinguished, yet the president of the Consortium Stefano Amerighi Is a charismatic person. The trailing effect of the various Dionisio, Baldetti, of the D’Alessandro Estates themselves, of the Dal Cero’s Montecchiesi Estate, Of Amerighi is not enough. The others do not take off because of the lack of continuity at a high level of the products presented. They thus frustrate the potential of the denomination, as it lacks a critical mass (both numerical but above all of high quality) that serves to represent the Syrah of Cortona in Italy and the world. We would not want it to become a great “lost” opportunity.
Below the photo gallery you will find the wine sheets of our best tastings, in alphabetical order by producer (we will reveal the scores in the Essential Guide 2026, which is already in the works).
TO READ THE WINE DESCRIPTIONS, WITH SCORE AND AVERAGE SHELF PRICE, CLICK ON THE TABS BELOW.
PHOTO GALLERY.
TASTINGS
