EditorialSigned DoctorWine

More pans and fewer stars

Più padelle meno stelle doctorwine

Yay for family-run trattorias, with simple but also very solid and territorial cuisine, where patron and cook-often the same person-are always present. In other words: more pans, fewer stars.

The accountability of any activity directed toward the public is made up of the following organization, of accuracy and the presence of constant controls carried out by the heads of the various sectors. Simple, almost trivial rules.

In the world of fine dining, which has an obvious artisanal component, the owners of the various establishments, chefs or restaurateurs in the broadest sense, have in my opinion the task of overseeing the various stages, from shopping to presentation and room service.

A consistently good service

From luxurious and starred establishments to family-run eateries., this is a key point in trying to give consistently good service while respecting customers and also those who do the work as employees.

If you then go to a restaurant of haute cuisine, where the chef is a character, the high cost is also determined by his presence, because in addition to being the creator and manager of a line of cuisine based on signature dishes, the fact that he shows up at the end of the dinner to greet customers is one of the elements of the show.

On the other hand, if he were not around for commitments made elsewhere, either of a TV nature or for “away” dinners, those who happened to be in his establishment would not have their bill lowered because part of the
performance
would not be available.

So even professional judgment of this or that chef cannot, in my opinion, not also pass through the assiduity with which he personally tends to the performance of his establishment, which goes hand in hand with the respect of his clientele.

More pans and fewer stars?

“More pans and fewer stars” might be a good slogan to support, don’t you think? Perhaps it is precisely for these reasons that in recent times I am fascinated more by family-run inns Than from snooty, star-studded restaurants. The cuisine will be simpler but also very solid and territorial, the wine list more restrained but with labels that are often reliable and not full of “extreme” wines, the bill definitely more affordable, and the service often familiar and smiling.

I think most people love and appreciate aspects of this, and they are beginning to get fed up with the “star cooks” very often absent from their kitchens due to various commitments, who sadly forget that pans are more important than stars.

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