A few thoughts on the Michelin Guide, taking a cue from Edoardo Raspelli’s long-standing criticism of it, mainly concerning the small number of inspectors, which does not allow all reviewed establishments to be visited every year and thus involves repeating the same ratings over the years.
That Edoardo Raspelli is a great restaurant critic is beyond question. His long career speaks for him. Lately he has been releasing an interview with the web publication Sentire and in particular its editor Corona Perer. She pointed out all her concerns about the modus operandi of the Michelin guide, the “Red,” in short. Raspelli argued, with plenty of documentation, that in some cases restaurant cards are identical year after year. Neanche una parola diversa.
His “version” has not been commented on much, so I take the liberty of reprising it here while also adding other perplexities this time personal.
Criticism of the Michelin Guide
Meanwhile, it is still true that “stars” are awarded only for the value of the cuisine? I am convinced that this is not the case and that, perhaps rightly, other factors are then taken into account in the judgment. The environment, the service, the cellar. Not only the gastronomic value, in short. Suffice it to say. And instead, even on the website of the “red guide” it says exactly the opposite:
“Contrary to popular belief, Michelin Stars are awarded only for the quality of the cuisine offered by a restaurant at a given time. They do not take into account the service, table settings or ambience of a restaurant; these aspects are documented by inspectors but are not taken into account in the decision to award the restaurant .”
Farewell to the traveler’s guide
Then, when the guide was born it was dedicated to travelers, so there were also the hotels. Ora non più e questo fatto non è stato sottolineato più di tanto e, oltretutto, ha dato vita a A specific guide with distinct awards and reports. The “Red” has changed its skin, in short, it is no longer a traveler’s guide, the awards are no longer given, in my opinion, only to cuisines, and the reviews, as Raspelli claims, have been repeated in some cases without change for years.
Starred restaurants
The definition of “starred” restaurant or chef has entered the collective imagination and is not necessarily referred to, at least by the generalist media, by the guide, even though stars are awarded by that publication.
Is it enough to ask some questions?