An important figure, a leading figure in Friulian viticulture, a pioneer of modern white wine in the region, who in one of the first meetings with Daniele Cernilli showed all his character.
Today only those in their 50s and up remember him, but starting in the 1970s, and for at least three decades, he was the great figure in Friulian wines. Among the very first to make wine “in white,” by 1970 he had already produced outstanding wines, from Pinot Blanc to Malvasia, even Rhine Riesling. A great friend of Veronelli’s, who was almost in awe of him, and that’s saying a lot, and a man of strong character, who certainly didn’t mince words.
I realized this very well in the spring of 1988, when I tackled for the first time, in a comprehensive way, the tasting and evaluation of the wines of Friuli for the second edition of Gambero Rosso’s guide Vini d’Italia. I was in my early thirties at the time, and I had to go there because the previous year, for the first edition, the region had been entrusted to a young collaborator, now well known but whose name I prefer to keep quiet, who had been up to no good. Driven by the sacred fire of passion, he had in particular decided to completely overturn the value judgments that up to that time had been made by the various Veronelli, Benini and Piccinardi, who were laying down the law in those years.
Not that this was entirely wrong, however, there was a youthful impetus and especially a clear preference for young and novice producers, such as Gallo, Jermann and Gravner at the time, which had created quite a few ill feelings. For Mario Schiopetto, the word “discontent” was an understatement. So when I called him to make an appointment and visit the company, giving him, as always, strictly and respectfully “lei,” I heard him reply something like this, “Ah, you are from the Red Prawn… I was really waiting for your call. Last year you did a very bad thing, come on in I have something to say to you“. It wasn’t exactly the friendliest welcome in the world, but I thought that seeing me, he would change his tones. He had not recognized me on the phone but given his long association with Veronelli he had met me many times.
So I set out from Percoto, where Giannola Nonino had put me up in their guesthouse (and where I was shortly to meet Leonardo Sciascia, for which I am still grateful) and headed in my sugar-colored Fiat Uno toward Capriva del Friuli, home of Mario Schiopetto’s winery. He was already not doing so well. He walked with a cane because of a disease with which he struggled for many years. The entrance then was a glass door, and Mario was waiting for me sitting, facing the entrance, with his cane leaning against the chair.
I arrived. I opened the door and said hello, “Now stand there because we need to talk first.” He left me standing, not even letting me take off my coat for almost an hour, and rarely have I heard as much as I did that time. “You people do not realize that you are dealing with people’s bread. You can write whatever you want about me; I have broad shoulders and fear no one’s judgment. But the record that has been written about the Cormons Producers’ Winery is a disgrace. That one gives a living to so many families here, you have to weigh your words, otherwise you create harm to a lot of people and for no reason, moreover“.
These words are stamped in my head in letters of fire. He was right and I could not counter anything. Finally, perhaps moved to pity even by my almost nonexistent reaction, he said to me, “That’s enough for today. Now sit down and taste the wines“. And he poured me a glass of ’87 Tocai (it was called that then). It wasn’t the best version of Tocai, the ’86 one was certainly better, but it sounded great to me. Greenish, delicate nose with classic fresh almond scents, savory, balanced. I didn’t taste it, I drank it. And when I looked up I saw Mario smiling. He had, “there” had forgiven me, and he understood everything, even the youthful eagerness.
However, those slams that shamed me at the time later served to teach me that the work of others should still be respected, especially if it is done with commitment and good faith. Those who sit in judgment must at least have the humility to understand this fundamental lesson. In this I had a great teacher.
