Abruzzo told in the Gironi DiVini

During the four days of Anteprima Gironi DiVini 2023 curated by Franco Santini, which saw us involved in tasting wines from Abruzzo, a number of the region’s wine productions were selected through a vis-à-vis confrontation between producers and technical jury. Wines from the Casauria and Vestini subareas and the Colline Teramane were initially evaluated, followed by a roundup of more natural productions. The latter, produced according to a less interventionist conduct, proposed a vision of an Abruzzo with characters more untethered from conventional production logics and in good part well-made tastings, without volatiles or microbial contamination often decidedly marking and unnatural.

The Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo category is the one that has dictated the timing of most of the debates, dividing the audience between proponents of the intense, almost deep red, traditional color and supporters of a more Provencal style, aimed at foreign markets and outside the region. The standoff between too intense for a rosé and too clear for a Cerasuolo takes a turn, however, with the more than 70 wines tasted, of which only three or four had “pale-pink” undertones. A disparity that can be explained by its greater consumption within regional borders and its perfect marriage with Abruzzo’s gastronomy. It is also interesting to note that this wine could meet the preferences of consumers looking for a lighter red in terms of structure, easy drinking and versatility.

Among the Montepulciano d’Abruzzo wines, the distinction between zones and subzones, styles and refinements, was most noticeable. Although the general trend is to offer a vision of the great Abruzzi red lightened in structure, with harvest and winemaking choices aimed at obtaining products more in line with today’s palates, the great character of Montepulciano presents itself well both as an aging red and in younger vintages, without excessive use of wood. Subtle are the differences between the Casauria and Vestini subareas, one close to DOCG recognition and the other in the process of certification, especially in the innermost contiguous parts, where greater potential for longevity and complexity stands out in the wines. Slightly further north, in the Teramane Hills, the vocation and historicity of the appellation give remarkable tastings with a great territorial identity.

More boundless is the universe of Abruzzo whites. The stylistic imprints in some cases are rather strong and harness too much territory and varietal expressions, which are already difficult to enhance in vintages marked by climatic contrasts and vegetative-productive imbalances. Another reason for this lesser areal definition of whites can be traced to the spread of certain varieties, which for reasons of production or commercial success are now found throughout the region. Trebbiano d’Abruzzo and, in particular, Pecorino have taken over the wine scene with many excellent interpretations, however, the importance of less widespread grape varieties such as Passerina, Coccocciola and Montonico cannot be underestimated.

Here are some of the wines we think are worthy among all those we tasted: