Badrutt’s Palace. Interview with head sommelier Cristina Iuculano

Class of 1990, grew up in Milazzo in a international family, with a German mother, Sicilian father, and French grandfather; graduated in agriculture and enology between Sicily and San Michele all’Adige., has traveled extensively for work and now resides in Valtellina, where he cultivates a small vineyard. Cristina Iuculano is a mix of cultures and stories encapsulated in a petite woman, but brimming with enthusiasm and determination. As of July 2022, she has been chosen as the new head sommelier of the Badrutt’s Palace hotel in St. Moritz, taking the place of the previous sommelier, Daniel Kiss, who remained almost seven years in charge. A prestigious role which she holds with the pride of also being the first woman sommelier to set foot at the Palace.

Cristina, how did you land at Badrutt’s Palace?
“I arrived here in June, on the 15th, to be exact. I remember that when I passed through St. Moritz I would always look at Badrutt’s with eyes in love, thinking that sooner or later I would like to work there. Then, one day, an ad appears on Linkedin for me: they were looking for a head sommelier. It had appeared to me exactly 4 minutes after it was posted, shared by a link of mine. I do not believe in luck, but I do believe, as dear old Socrates said, in the ability to seize opportunities. So I said to myself, it’s do or die and sent in my application. After just 4 days, I was contacted by the chief of staff and had the first of four interviews with the hotel’s food and beverage manager, Gian Müller, which lasted a full three hours. To him I am infinitely grateful for giving me the opportunity to work here. Why, in Switzerland, women sommeliers still continue to be very few; by the way, I am the first female sommelier ever to set foot at the Palace.”

How are you approaching this new adventure in such a prestigious reality and with such an impressive winery?
“In the cellar we have a stock of at least 30 thousand bottles for more than 1,800 labels, which place us among the top wine stores in the world. What scares me, however, is not so much the number of referrals as the organization. We have 11 restaurants, 2 bars and a Club who depend solely on me for wine; therefore, it is essential to manage the cellar with great order, and in this I am assisted by four cellarers who know all the codes and locations of the wines. Another complex aspect of this place is that there can be several events simultaneously in different outlets, so great coordination is needed.”

How is your work done and how much leeway are you given on paper?
“Regarding winery choices, I answer directly to Mr. Müller and management. On their part there is Maximum willingness to listen to my ideas and proposals: in principle I can do as I wish, as long as my ideas are justified and supported not only by theories, but by facts, so any change is approached very calmly and in small steps. As for my homework, inevitably I spend a lot more time here on the computer and doing the math: you have to keeping the archives in order, placing orders, wine costing and wine pairing. Then, of course, there is the task of making the rounds of all the halls during service hours, a task in which I am assisted by an experienced staff and my second, Lucio Pacchiano, whom I hold in the highest esteem.”

Where did you come from and what were the most significant milestones in your career path?
“I studied agriculture at the vocational institute in Milazzo, then took graduate courses in enology at San Michele all’Adige. When I was 18, I then moved from Sicily to live in South Tyrol, which remained my winter home base for years, while I moved for work in the summer. I immediately started working in the hall, in different even starred restaurants in northern Europe. Then, in 2021, I was called to oversee the opening of Maria Luisa Manna and Franz Haas’s Manna Resort, where I stayed for two years. There I was in charge of the wine list and also trained the person who took my place today.”

How did your passion for wine come about?
“I grew up, like many in southern Italy, in an agricultural context, in the midst of vineyards and harvest festivals. We also had some vineyard land in Milazzo, which my grandfather managed. It was thanks to him that I became passionate about wine. He was of French descent and, although he was not a great winemaker- far from it! -, he was, however, a great enthusiast and collector: I think I was one of the youngest people to have I drank a Romanée-Conti’s La Tache in my twenties, Without even knowing what it was! He always tried to steer me toward this world, so much so that, of four children, I was eventually the only one to choose wine. At the time he passed away, I was 16 years old, I inherited most of his winery and the small plot he had bought in Valtellina as an investment with a friend of his, which I manage today.”

So you are also a winemaker?
“Let’s say yes! I have this very small plot near Sondrio, we are talking about 450 m2, I grow. For years I sold the grapes to larger companies, such as Arpepe and Negri, but I also produced a small batch of wine by leaning on the winery of another guy from Valtellina, Dario Stazzonelli. Having grown up in the countryside, I really appreciate the agronomic aspect of managing a vineyard, so much so that at the moment I have temporarily put WSET on standby to follow the Simonit & Sirch’s vine pruning course, because tomorrow I would like to be able to have my own business.”

What do you think is the extra edge that differentiates you from many of your fellow sommeliers, perhaps with even more years of work experience?
“What is rewarding in my profession is the fact that, despite my age, I have been able to taste so many important wines. This is, first of all, because I had very early access to a cellar of great French labels thanks to my grandfather. But then, coming from an ordinary family, in order to continue to cultivate this passion, I began to working early in catering and to put money aside so that it could be invested in wine. When I was 21, I left for Burgundy, where I was also able to buy my first three Vosne Romanée-Conti, which I paid 890 euros each at the time. One I tasted and the others I resold-this was the pattern I followed for ten years. Trading and buying and selling with individuals to have margin to reinvest in wine, as well as a format of private tastings in which they involved friends and enthusiasts in order to share exceptional drinks. The goal has never been to make a profit, but to be able to return expenses to buy new references.”

The aspect you enjoy most about your work?
“I’ve always loved making strange pairings, That they would surprise the diners in some way. Even in the last place I worked, Manna, it was amazing how I could sell more pairings than bottles! Perhaps this is the aspect I miss most at the moment, being able to devote myself full time to food and wine pairing.”

The most curious pairing you’ve done?
“At Manna we had on the menu this cardoncello mushroom served half whole and half in a composition that looked like spaghetti, with passion fruit and truffle. When they asked me what to pair it with, I had no doubt: a Greek Assyrtiko! They called me crazy, however, it worked.”

What, on the other hand, are the less pleasant aspects of your work?
“One of every sommelier’s nightmares is seeing a great bottle go of the hands of someone who is unable to appreciate it And that he buys it only because he has the opportunity. It makes my heart cry sometimes, but over the years I’ve learned to see it from another point of view-at least I have a chance to taste it, too! Another aspect of my work in which I have matured a lot is keeping my passionate side at bay and giving pragmatic and diplomatic answers to clients who treat me with condescension or try to make me uncomfortable. I have also had bad examples of machismo, of male clients who did not recognize me in my professional role. Today, my behavior in the face of certain situations is to remain aloof and to dissipate with polite coolness as soon as possible. There’s no point in getting upset and wasting time proving yourself to certain people, because if you’re there, especially in a place where they won’t take you unless you really have a valid background, it’s because you have the skills.”

What do you expect from this experience at Badrutt’s?
“I expect a lot. This is a place where you can grow a lot both professionally and emotionally; where, more than anywhere else, you have the opportunity to deal with so many different people, of so many nationalities: in St. Moritz truly the world comes and it is no accident that it is called the “top of the World.” And I’m not just talking about clientele: the relationship with the rest of the staff is an opportunity to connect with people of all ages and backgrounds.
I’ve always wanted to go and grow up in my life, and let’s just say that if this hotel is in the top 50 in the world, there will certainly be no shortage of opportunities to do so! In addition, I think I came at just the best time: we have a Managing Director, Richard Leuenberger, who really steers this ship in the most excellent way; we have the director of food and beverage, the Gian Müller who enlisted me, who is his right-hand man and is truly a person of incredible humility and emotional intelligence. I think that’s really the magical part of Badrutt’s: the fact of being in an incredible 5 stars, where anything is possible, but without the classic rigid luxury environment. Everywhere you find great empathy and professionalism, which is then what sets him apart.”

And from a wine perspective, what do you expect to uncork?
“When I arrived, I made a thorough study of what were the self-reports of past years and was shocked at what you can sell in here! In the cellar we have some bottles and some Romanée-Conti verticals that can be found, perhaps, in Florence at Enoteca Pinchiorri. Switzerland then is a magical setting for this work: I deal with 35 different wine representatives, of whom I know precisely who can give me the products I want. Here you are able to buying and selling everything: only last night we sold, at the hotel bar, a 1997 Vosne Romanée-Conti for 8,000 francs (about 8,500 euros) and, at the same time, a 2009 La Tache at the restaurant!”

The most valuable label you have in your cellar right now?
“A 2009 Romanée-Conti Monopole, on paper for 38,500 Swiss francs, about 40,700 euros.”

Do you think you will be able to sell it?
“I have no doubt!”