Berlucchi and Caccia al Piano: Ziliani’s winning pairing.

Franciacorta since the 1960s and Bolgheri since the early 2000s are the territories where the Ziliani family has invested to produce better and better wines. We are waiting to see the results of the latest investment in Oltrepò.

Berlucchi and Caccia al Piano, Ziliani’s winning pairing.

Among Italian wine families there is one that I like for its concreteness and its ability to look ahead unhurriedly but with acumen. I am talking about the Ziliani family, known for the company brand Berlucchi Franciacorta and the Bolgheri-based Caccia al Piano.

It is precisely from here that I want to start, perhaps because of personal affinities with the area.

Plan Hunting in Bolgheri

The Bolgheri winery is now 20 years old, and the project shows a maturity and awareness that was obviously lacking in the early years. It is never easy to try one’s hand at different territories and wines, and even here in the early years the toll of relative inexperience was paid, but we are there now.

Before we delve into the commentary on the appellation wines, however, a few words about the wine that proudly declares its descent from a sparkling wine family: the CaP Rosé.

CaP Rosé sparkling wine

Finding themselves dealing with red grapes in an area like Bolgheri that is totally different from Franciacorta, the Ziliani family put their signature on the first classic method produced in Bolgheri precisely from grapes that were not thought to be suitable for sparkling wine making, but which reign on the Tuscan coast: Merlot and Syrah.

After several trials, the choice was made to use Merlot from the flat, more productive Le Grottine vineyard and Syrah from the San Biagio vineyard, the most prestigious. The grapes are harvested not unripe, as one might think, but ripe to 13 degrees potential. Vinified separately (2-3 weeks difference), with Franciacorta production rigor. The ripeness of the grapes and their sugar content allow sparkling wine to be made without the need for liqueur de tirage; it is the sugar from the grapes that “works,” thus without the addition of cane sugar for fermentation in the bottle. The sparkling wine then ages on the lees for about 12 months and is bottled with extra brut dosage.  The 2021 is the third vintage and 10,000 bottles were produced.

The Bolgheri White Lungocosta

In trying his hand at white, it was decided to aim for a nonvintage white, to assimilate the wood and gain complexity. Thus was born Lungacosta, a blend of 70% Vermentino with 30% Sauvignon. Le uve provengono dal vigneto Le Bozze, dai terreni sciolti, ricchi di sabbia e limo, particolarmente adatti alle uve bianche.

Bolgheri Superiore Caccia al Piano

In the case of Bolgheri Superiore, everything revolves around the San Biagio vineyard, which is at an altitude of 180 meters, with soils with a clay and limestone texture rich in skeleton, constantly ventilated. 12 hectares humpbacked, double exposure so and a position from which there is a view of the sea.

It was thanks to this vineyard that Paolo Ziliani literally fell in love with the winery. Of course, the other siblings, Cristina and Arturo, indulge him. From here come the grapes for the top of the house, the Bolgheri Superiore named after the company. and that it has found its ideal “recipe”: only Cabernet, with Franc taking almost half of the blend, less time in wood, but important new wood contribution. Greater precision in winemaking.

Then there is the historic Bolgheri Rosso Ruit Hora, born in the first years of the winery’s life (2001 is the first vintage produced). A wine that in recent years has also found its dimension by focusing on immediate pleasantness, excellent drinkability, but without neglecting a certain capacity for aging.

An eye on Franciacorta

On the Franciacorta front, it is worth pausing if only to highlight the release of the vintage 2013 of Riserva Palazzo Lana Extrême, a reserve that rests on the lees for at least 9 years which is followed by an additional year after disgorging and which always marks an important moment when it is released, not only for the winery.

As was said at the presentation last April, Precious like a secret, we are in front of the highest expression of Franciacorta for the Ziliani family. Three ingredients are needed to make this great Franciacorta: Pinot Noir, time, patience. Ma possiamo aggiungerne altri due, altrettanto indispensabili: sperimentazione e un pizzico di fortuna per l’andamento climatico.

We tasted three vintages, all cold: the 2013, 2008 and 2005, the latter from the historical archive, disgorged a la volée.

Welcome to Oltrepò Pavese

To stay on the topic of Pinot Noir, let us recall-news from August 2023-the acquisition in Oltrepò Pavese of Olcru Vineyards, in Santa Maria La Versa. The winery has a very modern cellar and, while offering various wines, is focused on sparkling wines. We are curious to see what the Ziliani family will do here.

TO READ THE WINE DESCRIPTIONS, WITH SCORE AND AVERAGE SHELF PRICE, CLICK ON THE TABS BELOW.