In recent years, many native grape varieties are being rediscovered that, in light of old winemaking knowledge, were difficult to grow or of little satisfaction. By now things have changed, and the results are showing.
Italy’s great wealth of grapes is paying off. Many grape varieties are emerging from a limbo where they had been forced into agricultural policies of the past and above all scientific ignorance first and technical ignorance later, which did not allow them to express themselves according to their wonderful characteristics.
For the past few years I have come across fantastic wines from the Adriatic coast, to which I add the Frappato Sicilian, which are replacing the great coastal classics based on Negroamaro, Montepulciano, Sangiovese, Refosco and singing company that even in their most valid expressions often show a limitation of elegance and smells always on the same directors. The formula that enabled this revival and hopefully an ampelographic change in the areas mentioned is simple: a improved viticulture, knowledge of
aromatic precursors
and winery techniques designed to foster increasingly precise and grape variety-friendly aromas.
We begin this roundup of wonderful , modern grape varieties given thehigh drinkability, taste freshness and recognizable aromas differentiated, intense and unexpected. In short, contemporary wines, unique in the world.
In Sicily southeast we have the Frappato, for too long mortified by blends with Nero d’Avola (Docg Cerasuolo di Vittoria teaches). Intense aromas, on yellow floral and citrus, an elegant and flavorful drink with little tannin content and a wonderful sensitivity to the soils of origin. It also has good heat resistance, which doesn’t hurt.
, black vernaccia, centesimino, schioppettino,
centesimino
schioppettino
ino,
In Apulia a white grape variety, the Minutolo, capable of intriguing aromas between orange blossom, tangerine and a vertical drink that you don’t expect in the south. Going up we find the Vernaccia Nera of Serrapetrona, which freed from the absurdity of a Jurassic DOCG, finds in critically vinified still wines a peppery, spicy strength to put the world’s best Syrahs to shame.
In Abruzzo the now well-established revival of Pecorino cheese thanks to winemaking that enhances the difficult but compelling thiols. In Romagna we have the Centesimino in Oriolo, always with tantalizing aromas in vintage wines but also capable of incredible aging. Excellent in the sweet version as well, extremely eclectic.
In Friuli Venezia Giulia the traditional Schioppettino which, in the Prepotto area and thanks to new knowledge about rotundone and its preservation, brings us back wines of poignant relevance and bewitching vertical drinkability.
And we are only at the beginning of this new story.
